The Beauties Of Cool Climate Syrahs
Author: Christopher Sawyer
June 2007
Food + Beverage
Add to your event-planning arsenal an appreciation of unusual wines that can satisfy the pickiest guests. For most, the old standbys of chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon usually do the trick. But for those looking for more adventure, try syrah. Add to your event-planning arsenal an appreciation of unusual wines that can satisfy the pickiest guests. For most, the old standbys of chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon usually do the trick. But for those looking for more adventure, try syrah.
Commonly referred to as a “grower’s varietal” for its natural vigor and versatility, syrah is a noble, thick-skinned black grape that can thrive in just about any condition. In the famed Northern Rhone region, for example, it flourishes in the warm daytime temperatures and cool nights. In Southeastern Australia (where the variety is called shiraz) it does well in hot days and warm evenings.
However, in the diverse winegrowing regions of California, the grape has a short history. In 1990, less than 600 tons were crushed in the entire state. But by 2000, the crush was 72,786 tons. And while many of these original plantings were done in the warmer inland areas, the latest trend is to concentrate in cool-climate areas.
In comparison to the big jammy flavors that are commonly associated with styles of wine made in Australia and warmer regions in California, these newer styles of syrah lean toward sophisticated elegance. Most feature bright aromas of fresh lavender, violet and fresh tobacco; and generous flavors of ripe blueberries, blackberries, cherries, plums and black olives. There are also subtle nuances of black pepper, sage, cinnamon and other spices. And finally, the tannins are supple instead of heavy and coarse.
Better yet, these delicious new styles pair nicely with a wide range of foods, including hard cheeses, grilled vegetables, pastas, braised chicken, gourmet sausages, pork chops, duck and lamb.
SONOMA COUNTY
In many ways, the spirit of risk that launched the cool-climate movement can be credited to producers in the Carneros appellation. This is a beautiful yet windy winegrowing region located between southern Sonoma and Napa counties, along the San Pablo Bay estuary. One of these pioneers is Fred Cline of Cline Cellars, who first planted syrah grapes at his estate in the early 1990s, despite being told the conditions were not suitable.
Today, the winery produces four unique styles of cool-climate, nationally available wines: the lovely and complex 2004 Los Carneros Syrah, made with hillside fruit planted on the estate; the elegant 2004 Cool Climate Syrah, made with fruit grown near Petaluma in the Sonoma Coast appellation; the smooth, spicy and easy-to-drink 2005 California Syrah, made with fruit from Contra Costa County and the Sonoma Coast; and the silky 2005 Cashmere, a lovely Rhone-style blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre.
“To us, syrah is a grape that responds completely differently, depending on where the grapes are planted,” says winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos of Cline Cellars. “When Fred was told no, he simply looked the other way and did it!”
Closer to the heart of Carneros, a newer project is in the works at the Ramal Vineyard, a stunning 1,000-acre estate property owned by Buena Vista Carneros, currently celebrating its 150-year anniversary. Despite being planted only six years ago, the 42 acres of clones from Australia and Rhone Valley have already shown promise. The inaugural release of the 2004 Carneros Syrah won a double gold, Best of Show/Red and the rare Golden Bear awards over all other red wines submitted to the prestigious 2006 California State Fair Wine Competition.
In the higher tier, the new 2004 Estate Vineyard Series Syrah features even more concentrated flavors of fresh picked blueberries, ripe boysenberries, smoke and a rich and supple texture. “It’s a wine that is big and not shy, but by the same token, one that will not mask the flavors with cloves and spice then beat you over the head with a 2x4,” explains winemaker Jeff Stewart, who previously worked with syrah grapes at Kunde Estate and La Crema wineries before coming over to Buena Vista Carneros in 2003.
In addition to Carneros, other popular spots to grow cool-climate syrah can be found in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations in west Sonoma County. Other fine producers to look for include: Carneros Creek, Castle, Cuvaison, Gloria Ferrer, Ramey, Havens, Hyde de Villaine, MacRostie and Truchard (Carneros); Arrowood, Dutton-Goldfield, Novy Wines, Sapphire Hill (Russian River); Armaugh, La Crema, Landmark, Novy Wines and Peay Vineyards (Sonoma Coast).
CENTRAL COAST
Farther south, California’s Central Coast is an expansive winegrowing area that includes Monterey, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara, among others. One of the fine producers from this area is Melville, a family-owned winery that began planting syrah grapes in the Santa Rita Hills region of Santa Barbara County in 1998.
Winemaker Greg Brewster compares the difference between syrahs produced in warmer and cooler regions in terms of a color spectrum. “To me, cool-climate syrah ranges from bright red to darkish red, not blue to black. While it does lean toward the elegant, feminine side, it can also be very hedonistic and playful like a rustic pinot noir.”
To highlight these qualities, Brewster uses no new oak on the syrah. “Personally, I don’t see any reason to be heavy handed with these grapes; the flavors are big enough already. If anything, we are trying to just showcase the natural bright fruit characteristics the grape is known for.”
Other Central Coast brands that specialize in making cool-climate syrah include: Beckman, Bishop’s Peak, Briddlewood, Cambria, Fess Parker, Foley, Gainey, Hahn Estate, Morgan, Qupe and Zaca Mesa.
